This time The Urumqi Mountain association invited me to guide their customers to climb the Mt Muztagata. 22nd of June, I left Lhasa and headed to Xinjiang, half way we traveled by train and half way traveled by flight. We reached Urumqi at midnight and spent the night there, next early morning after breakfast we flew to Kashigar, the weather over there was really hot. We spent the night over there and left the next morning and headed to 204 where we hire camels and local vehicles to transport our equipments to Muztagata base camp. We spent the night there in a yurt. Next early morning headed to Muztagata base camp with camels carrying our luggage and traveled by their vehicle. The road to base camp is bumpy and not straight but our driver was very skillful.
We were welcomed by the snow and cool wind at the base camp. We set up the tents and waited for the customers, they came after two days, and they have trekked from 204 so reached the base camp late. The next two days it snowed so we spent the time to know the customers and their experiences about climbing.
After two days of good rest we started to practice climbing to ABC to acclimatize and it took us 6 hours to reach ABC. Some customers were showing that they never climbed a mountain before even though they all said they have done it before.
After climbing to ABC we had rest for two days at base camp and I thought I will have lazy morning but the earthquake woke me up, we contacted the people who were summiting see if everything is fine at the camp 1 and camp 2 and on the top. The earthquake was not a big one so everything is good.
After two days of rest we headed to camp 1 and spent two nights there to acclimatize and also give them some training. We found one person was suffering from altitude sickness I asked him if he has climbed mountain before and he reply yes I have climbed Mt Kailash and so I asked again did you climb Kailash or circumambulation then he said circumambulation. Then I quickly checked his heart rate which was 143 and his body was ice cold and weak so we contacted base camp to send someone to pick him up and one of our guide accompanied him also. On the second day we climbed a little and also trained how to avoid ice cracks. This year there are more Ice crack then ever in Muztagata so those who are going there must be careful.
After spending two nights at camp 1 we headed to camp 2 and spent one night to acclimatize there. From camp 2 two guides with customers returned to base camp and three guides went to camp 3 to setup tents. The customers went to Taer town to get good rest and relax before the summit. After two days of rest they returned to the base camp, some customers has decided not to summit till the top due to their health condition and never been climbed snow mountain before.
Finally we checked with weather forecast and first two days there are some snows but light. So we started from the base camp and spent the first night in camp 1 and second night in camp 2 and third night at camp 3, actually we were going to start the summit around 3am but due to weather change we had to wait till 7am in the morning. Although we have checked weather forecast and it did say good weather but around 1am the wind blew so strong that it almost blew our tents. So we had to wait till 7am then headed to the top and it took around 9 hours for the fast walkers and 12 hours for the slow ones. Out of 14 customers 8 people summited till the top and due to customers condition we returned till camp 3 and rested and the next day we returned direct to base camp in good health and happy.
wanna experience with us !!!?
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